Once I finished the bottom groove in the front piece, I couldn’t resist the urge to dry fit the sides of my drawer. I even tried a test fit in the tool chest and all went good except for one tiny problem.
Somehow or another, this particular side ended up lower than its twin. That means the top of the groove is lower than it should be and my drawer bottom was not going to fit. Having a Starrett 6″ 4R ruler in this situation was a real plus. The clear and precise 32nd hash marks allowed me to easily determine how much to widen this particular groove. Because as long as the top of the groove is even around the drawer, the lip in the bottom can be any thickness. One side of the bottom will have a rabbet 1/8″ deep with a 3/8″ thick lip while the other side and front will have a rabbet 1/4″ deep and a lip 1/4″ thick. But the drawer bottom will be level. I widen this particular groove 3/32″, or 19/32″ from the bottom of its side.
I also had to raise the bottom of the back piece and I kind of did a hack job on it. So I won’t show any pics of it. If this drawer were going in anything other than my tool chest, I would redo the side and back piece or start over. But for my purposes right now, it will do just fine. The joinery is solid as a rock and will last a hundred years and most people will never see the back of this drawer. I’ve learned a lot building it and that was a big part of this project. I’m also getting a cool drawer for my chest that will allow me to efficiently a store and organize a lot of loose items in my chest. Plus it will give me more room for some joinery planes and tools.
Sunday afternoon and evening I managed to cut two boards to rough length for the bottom and planed the two edges that will make a butt joint.