Well I didn’t get as much done today as I had hoped but I learned a few things in the process. So it was a good day and I had fun. I started by finishing the stopped dado for the runner on the drawers left side. And my approach and execution was definitely better for this side. I worked the very toe of my cross cut carcase saw from one end of each gage line to the other until I had a kerf deep enough to guide the saw. But this time, I had the heel at the stopped end of the dado and ran the saw in the kerf rom the front to the back of the drawer side. In the picture below, the heel would be on the right, the toe on the left, and the saw would cut by moving to the left.
I sawed 1/4″ deep and then used a chisel to make several cuts the length of the dado and then zipped out the majority of the waste. My trusty router finished the stopped dado. And it is easily one of my favorite tools. I think it’s just fun to use. The last runner was cut to length and fitted to the stopped dado.
I then made a run the lumber yard for drawer back and floor material and made a pleasant discovery. They had 1/2 x 5-1/2 x 48″ poplar. Perfect! No planning to thickness required. I cut the drawer back first and fitted it to the chest.
I then turned my attention the drawer side-to-back joinery, thru dovetails.
In Hylton’s book he recommends cutting the stopped dados for side mounted drawers after the joinery is completed and the four sides are fastened and glued. It’s then easy to use a table router to make the cut. I didn’t feel comfortable following chopping dados on joined pieces. But that leaves me cutting tails and pins with a dado on one side. And I think this approach is the lesser of two evils. To make the layout and cutting of the tails as easy as possible, I clamped my drawer sides together outside face to outside face.
This picture shows the backend of the drawer sides in the middle, the drawer bottom on the left and the top on the right. Again, the outside faces face each other. I started the dovetails 1/2″ from the bottom of the drawer to leave room for the groove to capture the drawer bottom. I chose to make my drawer bottom flush with the bottom of my drawer sides in order to maximize the drawer interior space. Plus, I have nothing below my drawer and it is side mounted so I figured I could get away with it. If you look closely at this picture, you’ll see I’ll have to shorten the middle pin in order to use the side runners. Hopefully it won’t be too difficult. I know, famous last words.
Tomorrow I will cut the two bottom boards to length and glue together. And then cut some dovetails. Stay tuned and be safe.